Change the oil quarterly, and use a high grade synthetic oil which lasts far longer than conventional oils before it needs to be changed. Some synthetics last 30,000 miles without needing to be changed.

Both oil and air filters must be changed.

Most people don’t think about this, but they are very inexpensive, easy to change and they will keep the fuel fresh in any condition.

Check for tightness and cracks. All fan belts look good from the top, so look at the part that interacts with the pulleys for a true picture of how the fanbelt is. If there are major cracks or pits, change the belts.

Check for cracks around the seals for leaks. Any leaking or cracked hose must be changed.

A leaking water pump must be changed, but you may not know it leaks unless the vehilce is running. Place some paper beneath the pump, turn it on and let the engine heat to temperature. If the paper gets wet, the water pump is bad and needs to be changed.

All fluid levels need to be checked and topped off as needed.

 If you have Zerk fittings, lube the chassis quarterly, but many chassis have sealed bearings which cannot be lubed.

Check for wear and make sure they are inflated to the proper pressure.

Check and replace as needed.

Check to see that it blows cnew air. If not, get it recharged.

Check and replace headlights, brake and tail lights, license plate lights, turn signals and running lights.

If the battery is 5 years or newer, it needs to be replaced. A simple alternator test is to insert an on-off switch into the positive cable line. Turn the switch off when the vehicle is running, and if it stops, the alternator is bad.

Secondary (yet crucial) Checks

This must work flawlessly every time

Clean and sanitize.

Cracked and pitted window seals need to be replaced.

Make sure that they are well lubed and extend fully and easily.

If it doesn’t convert properly, it will need to be serviced.

The oil must be changed as well as the oil and fuel filters.

Check for hot water.

Check for cnew.

Make sure all the burners come on.

Check for heat.

Clean and fill the tank.

Check the material seams in bed, cushions, chairs, couches, and repair as needed.

Check for proper pressure and replace if no good.

Check and clean filters. Make sure it blows cnew air or get it recharged.

If applicable, make sure they can be deployed easily, and that they are connected properly and work.

Checks for Towable RVs

Many of the components of towables apply to motorized RVs, so they won’t be repeated here, But there are some specific towable tune-up and maintenance procedures that only apply to them.

Check for cracks and pitting. Lube them up so they slide smoothly.

Check for rusting, cracking, bending or damage.

Make sure they are lubed and working properly

heck for ease of deployment, rips and tears. Replace as needed.

Take the trailer out for a ride and check the brakes for stopping power. Listen for squeaks and grinding. Repair as needed.

Make sure all the lights work, and replace bulbs as needed.

 Clean it and lube.

Inspect and perform an ampere draw.

Refill quarterly